Sunday, October 5, 2008

Limoges, France






Leaving Trish behind to enjoy the galleries and cafes of Paris, we headed south today to Chateau Ribagnac, St Martin Terressus  near Limoges in Limousin, France. This was truly one of the best holiday experiences our family has ever had. Apparently this family had been featured on a UK TV reality show about moving abroad but we hadn't seen it and have never really been interested in the whole B&B type experience, but the owners of this property, the Bergot family, made us feel so welcome it was like staying with old friends. 

Chateau Ribagnac, built c.1642 during the reign of Louis XIII, was traditionally owned by some of the master porcelainiers of Limoges. During it's complex history, it was host to great artists such as Camille Corot, and was rumoured to be a secret Resistance hospital during WWII. 

Arriving at the property at dusk took our breath away. It is a truly gorgeous location. As soon as we arrived the Patrick provided the boys with fishing rods and his young daughter Agnes accompanied us whilst fishing in the lake in front of the chateau. No more perfect sight could be imagined. The mist rolled in and the fire was lit in the great drawing room. The kids played on the rug whilst Colette served us tea. The children's dinner consisted of organic roast chicken, mashed potatoes and carrots - seconds and thirds were requested from the boys!

Colette and Patrick have many varied interests, including the WOOF organic farming that they practice, that conversation over the magnificent dinner that night was incredibly interesting. They were warm and generous and we didn't even mind finishing up at 1am!! It made an enjoyable change from the usual rushed holiday meals! The breakfasts were an absolute highlight - local pastries, four types of homemade jams, vanilla pears from their orchard, great coffee... what a way to start the day! Even on the last day when we were leaving at first light, they provided us with the same wonderful breakfast. All whilst running a household, raising three lovely polite young children, keeping an organic farm and a business - all credit to them.

We stayed in the Grand Room which had a side room for the boys. It was perfect with a view from the window overlooking the valley. There are no "mod cons" in the traditionally furnished rooms thank goodness, although a massive bath and "throne room" were rather luxurious! Waking up in that bedroom was something I will always remember. My only regret was that we never got to see the "secret staircase" that apparently is hidden in a turret somewhere... maybe next time!

The location was perfect for seeing the countryside of Limousin, and Patrick offered us many ideas and brochures for interesting things to do with the kids in the area, and made reservations at a fabulous restaurant in Limoges for us one night. Even though most of the offerings looked great, we decided to spend most of our time in and around the chateau just soaking up the experience and walking around the property. I accidentally left my suitcase in Paris (oops) and I was offered suggestions for shopping excursions - there are great stores in town and I did a bit of damage to my credit card!

The chateau provided a feeling of opulence from days gone by, not as we know today, and that is why we loved it. We not only had a great holiday, but made new friends in the process; happiness is often found in the least expected places.